90% Talent, 10% Equipment?

Discussion in 'General Fishing' started by Isuck@fishing, Mar 23, 2020.

  1. Isuck@fishing

    Isuck@fishing Member

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    Both in golf and fishing I have never been one to invest a ton of money in equipment. I think skill and talent are 90% and equipment is 10%. But, open to hear different viewpoints..

    I have been using a $40 pole that I bought for my 6 yr. old son from True Value Hardware. Lol. I believe that came with a cheap 4# test line. Taking it to the bay I kept getting snapped off. So I bought heavier line. Then eventually, being a newbie, I thought it would just be easy to buy a reel that came with a 14# test line, and just replace the store bought reel so I can just interchange the reels vs. manually replacing the lines. The cheap Walmart reel is so heavy in comparison to the rod that the rod is not very sensitive, but I still manage to catch 6-15 fish.

    If it weren't for my wife buying me a nice 7 ft Shimano pole from Turners I would have never known that you can't just put any reel on any rod. It is light weight, sensitive, and way easier to have a feel for timing setting the hook. I only use 6# test. Can you put #20 test on any rod? Is there a formula or chart to heaviness of line, rod size or thickness?

    In short, I am shore fisher, frequently go to the jetty, mission bay, san diego bay, etc. I am not venturing out too much. When I get big tugs, and I go to set the hook, the fish takes everything, and I am left reeling in an empty line. I have tripled checked my technique on knots that is a variable I believe is not a factor.

    I would like to buy another rod. One that can support #15-#20, have good feel, and have one rod I can "sit and get" while I pull in 9-13" fish on my other rod. I just want to know that IF something 16" or more were to hit my line that equipment is not a factor. If I lose it - it points directly back to I am doing something wrong.

    I would like to start building a collection of rods over the future years. Given my skill level, where I fish, and my aspirations, hoping this forum could help guide me. Fishing is just a hobby for me, I do love it, but it is not a way of life for me - yet! Any suggestions/recommendations - size of rod, thickness, reel, line, etc. that is affordable for a rec fisherman like myself. When I read the post of ppl selling rods - it is pretty cryptic for this newbie. KISS method - Keep It Simple Stupid - is appreciated and welcomed.

    Really appreciate any suggestions, price range, and what store you would go to.
     
  2. William Ritchie

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    Most rods have a line and lure weight rating marked on the blank just forward of the grip . Some depending on the action will be able to go above the rating listed . The use of braided lines has made it very easy to go well above the rated spec and still stay within the diameter class for the line IE monofilament lines will have a larger diameter vs a braided line of the same rating . The weight rating may be a better cursor of what you can accomplish with the rod as the amount of bait and or lure weight it can cast is what it represents . There are many tutorials on line about selecting a rod and they probably explain action and ratings and purpose better than I can . As far as mounting a reel you have 2 distinctly different sets spinning and casting . The guides etc are specific to the types and work best when properly paired . The size of the reel is also tailored to match the ratings of the rod . Hope this helps even a little , if you do a little home work it should really help . WR
     
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  3. Double Minor

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    FWIW you should check out Risentidefishing . You could have an awesome time on the water with your family, some cool photos of SD Bay and maybe most of your questions and concerns will be answered.
     
  4. Werfless

    Werfless The Coach
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    Man.. talk about a book subject.. grab your phone, punch in the model number on the rod and see what comes up. 6# test on the jetty? I personally don't bother with any less than 12... For distance casting, rods nine feet and longer will help you get more distance, but this seems largely useless for what you do. I think you might need to come fishing with me, I think I could clear up your mind about what it is you are trying to do.. I fish many days for about an hour around sunset...
     
  5. fisheromen

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    Those "big tug" breakoffs sound like Halibut! Those critters have really sharp teeth. Using about 15-20# fluorocarbon will help but it will still happen.

    BTW, If you are using Spinning gear I would highly recommend braided line. 20# is good all around.
     
  6. dmorgan3

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    The wrong equipment is not going to work no matter how much you pay for it so it is not just a matter of how expensive the gear is. You can catch halibut with 6# test but you will need a smooth drag to do so which you won't get from a cheapo reel; a leader of heavier line is a good idea too if you are going for halibut on 6#. If the line is curled at the end after a break off, then the knot came loose, a fish biting or wearing thru the line will either be an abraded area or a clean break but no curly ends. If you tie the line onto something solid and put a bend in the rod so the drag starts to slip, it should let line out smoothly and not in jumps. Both rods and reels usually come with line recommendations, that is a good place to start. The rods will also come with recommended casting weights and you should match that to what you are casting. Too light or too heavy of weights and you won't cast anywhere as far as a rod matched to the weights. You will catch way more fish on inexpensive equipment that is right for the job than expensive equipment that isn't. You wouldn't use a dump truck at a NASCAR race nor would you use a Corvette to haul gravel.
     
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  7. Easy619

    Easy619 Tug Addict
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    I usually find line weight that is in the middle to lower range of a rods rating feels best, and lures in the middle to upper range load up and cast best. Could just be my opinion. But you're right, a reel size and weight that balances well with a particular rod will be more comfortable and feel more natural
     
  8. dmorgan3

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    I agree with Easy619 but then most of my fishing is from a float tube so I can't load up the rod as much as someone standing up so I can't cast as far either. If you cast standing up, you might find that mid to high test line and weights on the lighter side are OK. But you will still cast further with lighter line and weights on the mid to higher end of the recommended range for the rod. .
     
  9. Isuck@fishing

    Isuck@fishing Member

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    A big thank you for ALL the responses. I must say I am an avid reader here and just wanted to share that I have learned a lot on this site. Very helpful resource.
     
  10. Werfless

    Werfless The Coach
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    I realize this is shameless, but.. you might consider going over to cast and spear and signing up. I went over some basic fishing 101 and drew up a couple articles and did some videos for Jon to help out beginners...
     
  11. Everydog

    Everydog Well-Known Member

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    I think this is a minority opinion around serious fishing forums, but here you go.

    I don't like using junk, but feel as a hacker/ hobbyist( don't get paid) that I don't want to spend big bucks, and I agree it isn't necessary. As a kid , I had a heavyish 7" off brand spinning rod for which I rotated a little pushbutton zebco and a penn senator, and caught lots of fish from bluegill to leopard and guitar sharks. I caught some big guitar sharks with the zebco with mono that was too big for it ,and factory snelled eagle claw bait holder hooks. . My rigs as and older youth and adult have been more species and condition specific than that, but I only have a couple of combos I could make out of 15-20 that would be over $150. Most would be between $100-that $150. Those definitely are 90% good enough and sometimes I am thrilled with how the stuff works.

    Your basic penn reels meet or exceed the 90% standard for almost all heavier salt water fishing in our area, like overnight charters. Get the length of rod you want and the line match that's been talked about, but you don't have to get an expensive rod, Big-5, swamp meet or craigslist could be good. ( I don't like buying used reels).

    I would go with moderate equipment and if you want better , wait until it breaks and ask yourself this question again before you replace it.
     
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  12. kyle12345

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    My 2 cents. For shore fishing no need to get expensive. My caveat is that if you start doing multi-day sporties and spending 1200 on a trip, you want to go with some quality gear. Doesn’t make sense to spend 1200 and go with cheap stuff.
     
  13. MattL

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    The law of diminishing returns is majorly at play when it comes to fishing gear. In my experience, you can hit a sweet spot at around the $50-70 mark for both rods and reels. Honestly, you can go pretty cheap on rods without sacrificing much. The Berkley Cherrywood rods are $25 and perform just as well as any "budget" rod I've used in the $40-80 range. The Okuma Epixor is a tank of a reel and they're like $50.

    One of the best fishermen I know lives in the middle of nowhere in New Mexico, fly casts for trout in local streams. He hasn't changed his mono leader in twenty years. He's used the same stretch of line for two decades, tying on new tippet from time to time.

    A lot of the hair-splitting when it comes down to gear is driven by marketing. Fishing isn't that complicated.
     
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