Blending yamamoto w/ other plastics?

Discussion in 'Lure Making & Customizing' started by carpkiller, Sep 22, 2019.

  1. carpkiller

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    Anyone ever melt Yamamoto plastics to blend with fresh plastisol....or with recycled baits?
    There is a lot of leftover material when making tube baits...and....
    I have some plastic that started out as "hard saltwater" and after being re- melted several times it's stiff enough to make nails.
    And I have a lot of yamamoto product in weird colors (which is why it was in the sale bin).
    Is it worth a shot to put these together? Or should I just check the Do-It catalog for a tenpenny size mold?

    ThanCKs....
     
  2. Tom_74

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    I've remelted Yamamoto baits, and the issue you potentially run into is the high salt content. The added salt takes longer to heat up, and therefore very easy to burn if you aren't watching it like a hawk. I have no clue how the saltwater blend would do with the recycled Yamamoto baits, but if it's as hard as your saying I would want to melt it with a soft blend, and see if I could get a medium to medium-hard bait when I was done.

    If you see the Senko's in this pic, the ones on the right had 1/4 salt to about 1 1/2 cup plastisol, the lighter ones next to them have too much salt. 20190126_082330.jpg
     
  3. Mogambo

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    So what would happen if you heated the salt up to 350 degrees before adding it to the plastic? Asking for a friend.
     
  4. carpkiller

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    Thanks!
    Think I'll skip the remelting senko idea; avoiding heat-related complications already slow down the process.
     
    #4 carpkiller, Sep 23, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2019
  5. Tom_74

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    Haha, that's good. So I don't know the answer to heating up salt to 350, I don't even know if that's possible. If I'm making my own senko baits fresh I normally heat the plastisol first then add the salt. But back to remelts, I would just try a half cup of each, (the hard saltwater & yamamoto) and see what happens. If you have that much left maybe you want to shoot them in a tube mold? I have a four inch mold that's 5 cavities. I'm in east county and willing to help. Good luck!
     
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  6. carpkiller

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    Hmm. A tube mold.
    That would be the smart thing to do. But we never, ever do nothing smart..
     
  7. Mogambo

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    Sea salt (sodium chloride) has a melting point of 1,474° F. so there won’t be a problem heating it to 350. You can bake it in the oven in a Pyrex dish. When added to melted plastic it will actually help keep the plastic melted.....so I’ve been told. :emoji_wink:
     
  8. carpkiller

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    So. If it ain't gonna melt, and I crush it to powder and stir it into liquid plastic...the plastic will stay liquid longer? AND the resultant lures will have some flavor? This is a complication I can live with.....I mean, I'm asking for a friend.
     
  9. Mogambo

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    Salt adds no flavor unless the fish bites it. Its main purpose is to add weight to the plastic and cheapen the cost of the plastic since salt takes up part of the volume that would have been plastic. Hot sand would work the same way. If you crush the salt, do that first before heating it so you are adding crushed salt to the melted plastic. If it’s crushed though you may loose the heat retention properties of the salt crystals.
     
  10. Jcswimbaits

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    If you want the salt out, melt it down let it settle the salt sinks and when it hardens up you can cut the salty stump out
     
  11. spoonminnow

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    I never heat plastic to over 300 degrees in Pyrex. I've been making clear plastic lures and the higher the heat - especially after the first heating - the more yellow the plastic turns which would begin to tint other translucent colors.

    Diamond Fine Salt is pretty fine but I will still grind it more in my coffee grinder. M-F sells a soft sinking plastic that doesn't require as much salt and sinks fast enough for me with half the usual salt.

    Nice lures in the photo by the way !
     
  12. Tom_74

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    So how do you get re-heats liquid enough to pour ? Presto pot?

    Thanks for the props, I'm trying to get better.
    I have quite a few molds now, Core Shot Senko, AI's 4" stinger, AI's 5" Bloodline, Fatguys's 3.5" Keitech knockoff, 4" tube mold, 4.5" robo straight tail, Enforcer 6" finesse worm, Enforcer 4" frog, Do-its Senko, Ripper, & creature bait mold, along with about a dozen open pour molds. This hobby is a ton of fun, and can get expensive & addictive quickly.
     
  13. spoonminnow

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    Reheats take less time than heating new plastic. Pyrex in the microwave is the only way I heat plastic to a temp of around 280 degrees. At that temp I test the liquidity by stirring with a knife or swirling using the cup handle. It must be hot enough to inject into injection molds all the way down to the finely detailed tails. (Of course this may happen only after the second injection after the mold is warmer.) Stirring every 20 seconds to check if ready is really important.

    The hotter the plastic each time reheated the more the color changes such as clear turning brownish yellow after the fourth reheat. This isn't as important for opaque or translucent dark colors.
     
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  14. Mogambo

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    It hasn’t been mentioned but I assume you all are chopping up your scrap into small pieces before remelting.
     
  15. carpkiller

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    Yep. Good tip for first timers.
    I've gotten into the habit of taking chunks that need re-melting, and cutting them into smaller pieces while watching TV. The chunks go in a ziploc bag, saving a step the next time I get all the gear set up for a production run.
    Made some red and chartreuse w clear rat-tails last night, using re-melted clear plastic for the 1st dip (the tail)...and brought it up to temp really, really carefully with lots of stirring, and the tails are still kinda opaque rather than clear.
    :emoji_poop:
    20191001_083113.jpg
    I was determined NOT to buy any more gear...but a thermal scan thermometer thingy would really help the heating process. Sounds like 280 is where the temp needs to be. Last week I had a ceramic cup full of goop that was nice and runny and still the color I wanted. I had been stirring it for about ten seconds and it all turned brown before my eyes. Nice and hot in that cup, still cooking even after being removed from the oven. It didn't smell scorched...so maybe the coloring just gave up after prolonged head exposure.
     
    #15 carpkiller, Oct 1, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2019
  16. Tom_74

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    I also only heat using the microwave & Pyrex, including remelts.

    What plastic are you using?
    I switched from Do-it to Bait Plastics and couldn't be happier. But I've yet to do any remelts with Bait Plastics.
     
  17. Tom_74

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    Those tubes are looking really good! Great job!
     
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  18. Mogambo

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    Here are my observations:

    Looking at the photo of the clear tubes do I see bubbles or flake? If it’s bubbles then that means the scrap had moisture in it. Minute bubbles could certainly turn the plastic opaque. So could a couple of small chunks of white or pearl in the mix or even salt.

    Harbor freight has a cheap infrared thermometer that’s pretty accurate.

    Once the original plastisol mixture is heated and fuses into vinyl plastic a time clock begins. It’s ability to maintain its color or clarity, if reheated, is diminished. Adding more heat stabilizer to remelted plastic won’t do much. You are better off mixing 80% new plastisol with heat stabilizer with 20% scrap if you are trying to make clear.
     
  19. carpkiller

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    It's bubbles and flakes. Thanks. I didn't want to get an injector because I want tubes w skinny ID. And the injectors seemed complicated compared to just melting and dipping ....

    (edit) I dip the mandrels (fancy word for tent pegs) in water to get the tubes off quicker, so there was some condensation inside. A couple days later, the rat-tails are pretty transparent.

    Next degree of insanity will be a swimbait mold shaped specifically for re-cooked, tough plastic. ScorcherZ SticklebaCKZ.
     
    #19 carpkiller, Oct 1, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2019
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