Braid guys… how do you do it?

I'll chime in. From about five years ago, maybe more I've been convinced and ultimately switched exclusively to braid on all my spinners for LMB. 6lb-10lb max for everything finesse. The rare occasion where reaction on a spinner (maybe wind or gin water) I'll tie on a 8lb-10lb floro leader.

All else (in my experience) can be delegated with a baitcaster. Im strictly talking about targeting LMB.

Bottom line. With the right reel (spinner) braid can be an irreplaceable ally and tool.

 

plain and simple braids not meant for rocky areas
doesn't mean you can't use it but its for grass and tullies
you can rip thru it and for non stretch applications

at san v with quaggas nothings safe

 

Braid simply is not that abrasion resistant, especially if you are comparing similar test braid to mono or fluorocarbon (FC). FC is the most abrasion resistant line and the stiffer and harder to cast, the more abrasion resistant it is. So use a FC leader of sufficient length that the braid doesn't rub against rocks. Unless a very rocky area, probably doesn't have to be very long.

 

I personally say ditch the spinners all together…. To each their own

 

I do admit, braid on a spinner rids you of a lot of the problems you get with mono. But braid isn’t for everything.

I still “deal” with spinners here and there. Proper line spooling is key, how the wraps come off the spool vs how it goes on to the reel, checking every now and then for twists while spooling. Putting it on tight, and putting line conditioner on it. Then while fishing, a couple bombs to the middle of the lake to repack the line tight. Then changing the mono every trip. That makes a huge difference.

Another thing you can do in a boat or even your yak. Go straight and feed the line out the back with nothing attached to the end. Let it all the way out or even half of the spool. Close the bail and drive. After a min, pinch and reel. =zero twist.

In my experience, braid has its places. Flipping heavy cover, deep drop yo yo and backing with top shot for line capacity for offshore big game.

 

If you fish the nastiest stuff, use mono. Every test I have seen, backed by personal experience, shows mono of similar diameter is more abrasion resistant than fluorocarbon, braid, polymer, etc. The guys in Aus have tested it, the gulf coast boys tested it, the euro carp guys have tested it. Hell, our own Mad Macks Fishing Club has tested it with both hard and soft monos, numerous brands across the board. Test after test after test all show the same results: mono is the most abrasion resistant hands down. If you need abrasion resistance, use mono. Simple enough

 

See Fluorocarbon Line Tests Abrasion Tensile Knot Strength .

Compared to dry Trilene XL mono, FC is about the same although there is a lot of variation from one line to another. Get the XL wet and its abrasion resistance drops 50% and FC lines are much better. Would have been nice if there were tests on more abrasion resistant mono lines than XL.

Another article: THE FLUOROCARBON MYTH

 

I typically use a much shorter leader without problems. Have you checked your line guides and roller on the reel to make sure there is nothing rough in those spots? Does the roller spin freely?

I don't like long leaders that pass thru the guides. It is my belief that the shock of passing the knot thru the guides weakens the knot. It is hard to tell with braided line whether the line failed due to a knot failure or abrasion unless you see signs of abrasion for several inches.

FYI, if you have a loop of line on your reel and continue to cast, it can wear the line quite fast and result in a failure, braid or otherwise. Most of us wouldn't do that intentionally but it can be easy to not notice.

 

dmorgan3 , the Aus boys tested underwater and dry for something like 40 different brands and types of lines. Can't remember the actual name of the channel offhand though, as I tend to avoid content from that part of the world these days

 

Call me when you have time: 858 583-1779

 

If you need to fish braid in deep structure, go thicker diameter... it will buy you some time. Like your leader you must keep an eye on it for wear n tear. Have your on-the-water retying game on point or bring many back up set ups.

 

i agree to the above 6lb if I can find it, if not 10lb with a top shot of flo. 30lb straight on all of my bait casters with black felt marker 2’ +- on the end, I don’t have any problem using that line until the color start to go away or the coating is fading

 

8 Strand Braid cast better than 4 Strand and may hold up better than 4 strand on the rocks?
Never had a issue. I do know Quaggs cut me off all the time.

 

Would love to see it if you can find it.

 

Basically all of my bait casting rods are equipped with braid.
In my boat, I do have 2 spinning rods. The one rigged that I have used the most is for baits such as small craw or creature baits or wacky rigged Senkos. I use straight 20lb PowerPro line on a 7’ Mag Medium Heavy Castaway spinning rod with a Daiwa Tatula LT 4000-CXH spinning reel. I also have used one of my Daiwa Ballistic EX2500H reels with 15lb Power Pro mostly for Ned rigs and I cannot honestly remember ever getting a backlash or wind knot on either reels. Fishing straight braid in the grass, sand or gravel bottoms has never been a problem. I think the last time I broke braid while bass fishing was at Sutherland in one of the rocky areas(yes mcfish in my favorite spot). I have broke off mono or fluoro just trying to get a lure out of a snag without too much pressure especially around rocks. So braid can get shredded and break, but overall I would rather have straight braid on which is more abrasive resistant and durable than mono in most of the bass fishing conditions the way I fish.

 

So what braid brand and model do you use and what pound test for your bait casting reels? What reels do you use? Any problems with the braid digging in the bait casting reels?