Finally found a solution to being 'stumped' (snagged)

Discussion in 'Lure Making & Customizing' started by spoonminnow, Oct 7, 2017.

  1. spoonminnow

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    Weed guards for small jigs aren't practical. Bass jigs yes; small jigs no way. But more important than making a jig weedless, is making it less branch and stump snagging. I routinely fish stumps and close to submerged branches of fallen limbs over deeper water (4-6'). But almost 1/2 my cast end up snagged such that I have to troll over and free the lure using my rod tip. It's time consuming, frustrating and spooks fish in the area. So... here's something I came up with yesterday, that's not foolproof but does work a majority of time. I call it my ram horn wire design in that the wire is shaped line a curved ram's horn.

    The first consideration of any weedless option is to make sure the hook gap is adequate between the hook shank and weed guard tip. The brush guard for bass jigs must depress easily when a basses jaws clamp down, but there can be no brush guard for pan fish because the feel of the resistance to bending down, makes them let go immediately. I use a very thin wire I attach to the jig hook shank and then form the guard as seen below:
    full-4706-183347-stump_guard.jpg

    The L wire holds the lure in place; the ram guard deflects wood and most weeds standing off bottom while at the same time allowing enough gap for fish to clamp down. As I said, it's not foolproof - occasionally snags happened and the wire must be adjusted high enough to deflect snags, but most times it worked!!! It sure as heck did well yesterday even in open water.
    Here are three of the dozen fish caught yesterday using the ram guard:
    full-4706-183344-img_0001.jpg full-4706-183345-img_0003.jpg
    full-4706-183346-img_0006.jpg

    I found that using thinner lures worked best by allowing more hook gap between the lure body and hook point.

    Fishing was tough because of an algae kill and stagnant water due to a drought, but once fish were found in an area of open water or under trees with branches and stumps, fish became aggressive enough to clamp down - many attacking the lures a few times on the same or next retrieve.

    As you can see, I've rigged the guard on different jigs having different hook size and weights 1/32 and 1/16 oz. This covers lure speeds: crawl to medium. Once I got the hang of it, adding the guard didn't take much time, but regardless - well worth it!
     
  2. Larry M

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    Get a patent before someone else does. Good idea.
     
  3. spoonminnow

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    A few anglers on another forum said they used Grousefly weedless jigs. Ever hear of them? Do pan fish usually hit fiber guard or wire guard jigs?

    This is a wire guard I came up with about six years ago.
    R3CKP9r.jpg P0CZ1s8.jpg

    I figure if pan fish will strike a jig with a nylon brush guard, they should strike the above.
     
    #3 spoonminnow, Oct 7, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2017
  4. spoonminnow

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    Here's an update for a weed guard that I improved upon and what is needed for those interested.
    The bites and hook-ups are better even from small fish.

    Tools:
    wire cutters or nail clippers(okay for fine wire)
    30g wire
    24g coated wire (optional as a grub grip); 30g for small jigheads (1/32 oz)
    pliers
    jigs (I prefer 1/32 and 1/16 unless fish big and active 1/8 oz)
    pipe (optional)

    FVPqKOr.jpg

    (the orange tape is so I can find the pliers I usually misplace more often than not in all the clutter in my workshop...)
    Grub grip wire:
    X6HWeX9.jpg

    DvCted3.jpg ke2xBLr.jpg GqFwUge.jpg
    The weed guard takes less than 30 seconds to add to any size jig; the grub grip a bit longer but both well worth it!
    Note: the stainless steel wire only has to be wrapped once around the hook shaft and brought back through the line tie on the opposite side, cut to the length shown and then bent at the ends.
    rJG2V0R.jpg s4Pqqrz.jpg

    Y2dAHza.jpg
     
    #4 spoonminnow, Oct 22, 2017
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2017
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