Home Made Underspins

Discussion in 'Lure Making & Customizing' started by vaughanmatt13, Jan 24, 2019.

  1. vaughanmatt13

    vaughanmatt13 Well-Known Member

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    New Hobby came out decent paint will need to be perfected but kinda liking them made a dozen gonna test them tomorrow



    50125819_10215386856197473_4482705513418588160_n.jpg 50820487_10215435472452849_7113432274242109440_n.jpg
     
  2. Troy

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    Yeahhhhhh
     
  3. Capt Ray

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    No reason those won't work.
     
  4. Werfless

    Werfless The Coach
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    Vito1023 made a pretty cool underspin out of one of the.. storm lures.. I think? Thing looked deadly
     
  5. carpkiller

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    Look great! Did you add the hardware to existing leadheads or did you spring for the new do-it mold?
     
  6. Easy619

    Easy619 Tug Addict
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    Looks good man..
     
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  7. vaughanmatt13

    vaughanmatt13 Well-Known Member

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    Ya did them myself way cheaper then warbaits
     
  8. Vito1023

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    Those look great, the ones I customized have been the only lure that has worked for me lately, my custom ones were super simple to make and they cast like a bullet, I’m sure yours will work great, please report how you do.
     
  9. Neuroshima

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    Looks great. Where did you get the blades and swivels?
     
  10. Tom_74

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    Nice job, I love seeing peoples custom work.
     
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  11. vaughanmatt13

    vaughanmatt13 Well-Known Member

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    Got most of the stuff on Barlows tackle but you can also find it cheap on Ebay. Gonna start to sell them I think I've had a few people already make a order to try out.
     
  12. vaughanmatt13

    vaughanmatt13 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks man Its been fun making them so far
     
  13. vaughanmatt13

    vaughanmatt13 Well-Known Member

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  14. carpkiller

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    Nice. I hadn't seen the "candling" of a mold before. I guess the soot's a release agent...might try that if I'm working with a mold that's sticky.
    CK
     
  15. Baja_Traveler

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    They look really nice! But buying high priced sinkers to melt down is a waste of money. I'd be willing to part with 40-50 pounds of lead in exchange for some finished heads though...
     
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  16. Mogambo

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    The soot acts as insulation in the mold to keep the lead from freezing up too soon if the mold is cold and allows the lead to fill the mold. . It’s better to preheat the mold first to reduce the number of duds.
     
  17. Baja_Traveler

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    I use a hot plate to preheat my bullet molds. Heat the mold right and there are zero rejections and good fillout right from the start without having to soot the mold. I cast thousands of bullets a year to support my rifle silhouette habit, but the molds I use are gemstones compared to the lumps of coal the Do-It molds are. I sure wish there was a source of machined cavity molds instead of the sand cast quality available to us for fishing...
    164177776.VQeHFuLK.jpg
     
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  18. vaughanmatt13

    vaughanmatt13 Well-Known Member

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    I ended up getting about 100 lbs of lead from a sport boat capt buddy so I'm set for awhile already even sold some to few guys on here and sdkf on FB good reviews so far especially for the price I'm selling
     
  19. Mogambo

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    A machined cavity mold would probably be too expensive for the sports fishing market. That’s a beautiful bullet mold in the photo. One of the reasons it works so well is that it is highly vented. Those radial cut finish lines on the surface of the mold are actually vents to allow air to escape as the mold is filled with the alloy you are using. Then in between each bullet I can see a larger vent port for all the tiny radial line to bleed to. Do-it molds have a frosted finish to allow air to escape.

    Most commercial lead products are made in vulcanized rubber or silicon spin casting molds either eight or twelve inches in diameter. Multiple parts are made at each spin. For example, a 1/2 oz jig mold may have 35 cavities while a small 1/16 oz crappie jig mold may have a 100 cavities. Hooks are loaded on the mold and the top half is installed which has a hole in the center. The mold is placed in the spin casting machine that clamps the two halves together and then spins the mold while lead is poured into the hole in the center. The centrifugal spinning forces the lead into the separate cavities.
     
  20. carpkiller

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    20190216_095941.jpg
    Yeah the first couple molds I played with were big fat leadheads and had few issues. But in a grass jig mold with a skinnier cavity...the lead cools on the way in and doesn't reach into the shank/barb area. So I got into the habit of preheating molds in the oven at 200 degrees. They don't have to be red hot...just hot enough so the mold doesn't suck all the heat out of the lead before flows all the way in. And each time it's dribbled in, the hot lead keeps the mold warm enough so I don't have to re heat the mold....unless I'm fooling around with multiple molds with lots of time between actual pours. The more time spent fiddling around loading hooks, wire bait keepers and weedguards into the mold, the more likely the mold will cool, resulting in a bad pour. So I lay out all my parts on saucers before the molds come out of the oven. Hooks here, keepers there, etc. Easy to grab each one, load the mold, pour and repeat. So there's no time wasted opening up little parts bags and shaking out a few more hooks for this production run. If you're gonna make a few dozen heads, getting everything laid out ahead of time keeps the job from dragging on and on...like this post.
    And if you're making a couple different lures (weight, hook size, with and without weedguard) you might as well keep em separate throughout the process. The first time I did it I was just tossing em all in a pile. Spent a lot of time later sorting em out...and it's easier to get through each step (trimming lead , painting, sticking on eyes) if you're working with the same size pieces.
     
    #20 carpkiller, Feb 16, 2019
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2019
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