One rod backlashes not the other

I have a Cherrywood but not the one you mentioned. They are slower action than most graphite rods. Slower action is definitely easier to cast, the timing is much less critical. So here are the things you can do to reduce backlashes:
1. Adjust the weights or magnets on your reel for more resistance, this will be rod dependent. Adjust the tension knob to so the lure slowly falls.
2. Probably not the guides but check those anyhow. Make sure the line threads thru the guides correctly and that no ferrule popped out. No damage to the guides.
3. Use heavier lures. The lure weight ratings on rods are approximate and not consistent manufacturer to manufacturer. Timing will be less critical with a heavier lure.
4. Did you swap reels? Probably not the issue but try anyhow.
5. Use line lube, even helps casting reels. Rotate your wrist when casting so gravity works to help prevent instead of cause backlash. Use limp monofilament line instead of one that is claimed to be abrasion resistant (will be stiffer) or fluorocarbon (tends to be stiff).
6. How much line length do you have from the tip to the lure? Too short of a length causes problems, maybe 2-3' will work better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxR1JCmPBRg
7. Cherrywood rods are not expensive and are good value in my opinion even if not high end. Just buy another, it will always be easier to cast than the Fenwick faster action rod. No reason the night fishing setup has to be the same as the day setup. I have extras, would be happy to sell you a used one for half price. 7', one piece, medium action, 8-20 lb (works fine with 6), 1/4-3/4 ounce. Also have 6'6" rods I could part with that cast easy. I just have other rods I like better.

 

Another thing to consider as you mentioned flicking too assertive with the Fenwick; release point or launch angle.

This can compound based on the rod action

 

I find my casting stroke to be very different with a fast or extra fast rod than with a moderate fast. The faster the rod the more of an early release I do to get the launch angle right, they seem to want to line drive it more. Late release in the dark can be difficult to slow that spool before it hits the water.

Eg3210 could also be that the rod causing the backlashes is achieving a higher initial velocity and really cooking that spool if its wanting to overrun early in the cast. Fishing a baitcaster in the dark can be interesting, I mostly rely on timing and having a consistent casting strike as my night vision is garbage. I find my casting to be more consistent with rods that are less fast. Those cherrywood are a pretty decent blank for the cash in my opinion. The guides are the weak point

 

First thing I would do.

 

Rod is too fast. If the reel loses connection to the casting weight due to the fast rod response there is tiny slack, the weight catches up yanks and overspins the spool.

I'm casting a 3 way catfish rig but the principle applies. I have a 9 foot rod I cannot cast that rig, it is too fast for it. Slower rods I can.

Similar rig for sharks in the surf on a 12 foot no problem.

 

Interesting post . I prefer fast action rods for lure fishing , it is different and there needs to be enough rod loading to make it function . The cast stroke needs to have a defined stop at the release point to allow the stored energy to used . Slow action rods are easier to cast and more forgiving especially with softer baits . What it comes right down to is the speed of the lure / bait determines ability to travel . F=ma . Faster rods typically are able to apply more force causing a faster acceleration . This is why the spool moves so much faster , with practice on the fast rod you will learn to control the spool . Just work with that rod in the daylight for a while . Good luck out there . WR

 

Depends where casting at night. In the surf or the depths of the IV you can't see jack.
You got to be pretty good at casting period to throw into the void.

I could throw that same rod with weight right at the tip no problem but 1-3 foot of leader from rod tip to weight on a three way rig the problem happens.

 

Knowing the amount of drop Etc. is very important . I know when I cast at night in the surf , muscle memory from practice in day light allows me to have a fair idea of where it goes . Can't see it hit but the amount of line that came off the spool and the sound of the decelerating spool lets me know when to stop to avoid the backlash . I also use reels that have magnetic cast control that really help with the spool control . Again good post , a lot of good ideas and adaptations are showing up . WR

 

Curado or SLX DC reel

 

Less expensive than Curado: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/shi...VA7SzCh2fYQc8EAQYBCABEgLy3vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Have not tried it but good reviews. Have had only good experiences with Shimano. Sounds like a great idea for night fishing. Or switch to spinning.

 

Bait is one of the hardest thing to throw on a Baitcaster!

 

Just use big honking bait. Over loading the rod can cause the same thing. Tossing whole fish heads in South America gave me fits because of rod overload.

 

I always have about 2' of line out before casting, feels to me like it loads the rod better and gets better distance.
Also great advice by William Ritchie about the sound of the spool for casting in the dark. Between the sound of the spool and some muscle memory of how long the cast is in the air, that's what works for me. I used to be terrified casring baitcastrs in the dark haha but the more I do it the more second nature it becomes.

 

Funny thing is I throw a baitcaster better in the dark.

 

Getting "stuck" with the more sensitive rod will play out good for you in the long run. Nothing wrong with being able to feel the bites better....

 

Run the line between your forefinger and thumb, then the rod doesn't matter for sensitivity; a baitcaster makes it much easier to do this than a spinner. Use braid or other superline for even more sensitivity. Sensitivity is real important, absolutely agree on that.